Visiting Jordan was the realisation of a dream. Petra had long been on my mind but I had only recently read about the Roman ruins of Jerash.
I learnt that Jerash is one of the best preserved sites of Roman architecture outside Italy. It is Jordan’s second most popular tourist site …and it is only a forty five minute drive from Amman!
The view from the Forum to the Temple of Artemis
A little bit of history…
Even though it had been settled earlier, Jerash first became an important town in the third century BC under the rule of Alexander the Great.
When the Romans conquered Syria in 64BC, Gerasa, as it was known then, became one of the ten great Decapolis cities belonging to the Greek- Roman federation. Great economic benefits were bought to the city mainly through trade with the Nabataeans from Petra.
Prosperity peaked in the third century. At this time it was a Roman colony of 20,000 people but in the following centuries trade routes changed, shipping became more important and the town started to decline.
The Persian invasion of 414AD, the Muslin invasion of 636AD and earthquakes of 749AD all added to this and the city shrank to a quarter of its size.
There was a brief occupation by the Crusaders in the 12th century but the city remained deserted until it was rediscovered in 1806 by German traveller Ulrich Jasper Seetzen.
Excavation of this ancient city began in 1925 and continues to this day.
Excavation continues on the right
The site covers a large area, so bring your walking shoes. You have a two to three hour walk ahead of you!
Hadrian’s Arch
Hadrian’s Arch
Being close to the entrance, Hadrian’s Arch is the perfect introduction to Jerash. The arch was built in commemoration of Emperor Hadrian’s visit in 129AD. Decorated with carved acanthus leaves on the capitals, it was originally twice the height and had three wooden doors.
Hippodrome
Just through the arch is the Hippodrome. Built between the 1st and 3rd centuries, the hippodrome covered a large area. It was 245m long and 52m wide and could seat 15,000 spectators but most of the seating has now disappeared. Today, chariot races are held for the tourists.
South Gate
Looking through the South gate you can start to see the pillars.
Keep your ticket as you may need to show it at the South Gate. One of the four original entrances, it is from here that you first start to see Jerash’s columns appear.
Forum
A few of the 56 pillars surrounding the plaza of the Forum
View from above taking in the new city in the distance.
The Forum was, for me, one of the highlights of Jerash. The oval shaped plaza is surrounded by 56 columns, each made from four blocks of stone. Limestone slabs pave the plaza, increasing in size from the centre. Lying between the Temple of Zeus and the main thoroughfare, Cardo Maximus, it is easy to see why it was the centre of the social and political life. The best view is from the steps of the Temple of Zeus behind you.
Cardo Maximus
The main street!
Columns and more columns line the street
From the Forum, the colonnaded main street, the Cardo Maximus leads you through the centre of the town
The paving is original…you can still see the ruts caused but by the chariot wheels
On either side of the road, remnants of history lie. Crumbling pillars, column blocks and capitals wait like jigsaw pieces to be put back together again.
Guides jump up as you pass, wanting to show you how the pillars move and help you discover the hollow sound of the rocks.
Framed ruins
Beautiful pieces lie waiting to be restored
Nymphaenum
Can you imagine water flowing over the facade!
One of the more complete buildings on the road is the Nymphaenum…. the main fountain for the city which is dedicated to the water nymphs. Water used to cascade over the facade and into a large pool at the bottom. It must have been an amazing sight. At the foot of the structure the pink granite water base is still in one piece.
Cathedral
When is a cathedral not a cathedral…
Next door to Nymphaenium is the Cathedral. There is no cathedral, only a Byzantine church rebuilt in the 4th century over the original 2nd century, gateway to the Temple of Dionuysus. During the 4th and 5th centuries, Christianity became a major religion and many churches were constructed. Pagan temples were permitted to be dismantled, as happened here, and many of the pieces were used to build new churches.
North Gate
The view towards the North gate with the modern city of Jerash in the background
North Theatre
Details on the North Theatre
Yes, you must wander up the hill, for here you will find one of the two ampitheatres in Jerash. It had been destroyed by earthquakes and dismantled for other projects but what you now see is the result of years of restoration.
Temple 0f Artemis
The remaining columns of the Temple of Artemis
Tea is served amongst the ruins of the Temple of Artemis
Built between 150AD and 170AD, this is one of the magnificent sights in Jerash. It is dedicated to Artemis, the goddess of hunting and fertility. Eleven of the original twelve Corinthian columns are still standing, all topped by capitals decorated with acanthus leaves. The temple can also be reached from the main thoroughfare.
South Theatre
The South Theatre is a work in progress!
A lone piper plays on stage at the South Theatre
The walk over the hill takes you to the second ampitheatre, the South Theatre with its beautifully decorated stage . We were serenaded here by a Jordanian piper… not quite what I was expecting but it certainly showed how wonderful the acoustics are! This theatre is a bit older than the Northern Theatre, having been built between 81AD and 96AD.
Temple of Zeus
Looking towards the Temple of Zeus_
Just below the South Theatre is the Temple of Zeus. Built in 162 AD over an earlier Roman temple, it looks over the entire city. The views are magnificent..over the Forum and down the Cardo maximus thoroughfare to the North Gate.
The view of the forum and Cardo Maximus as seen from the Temple of Artemis
Jerash was an amazing experience, one not to be missed! Walking around the ruins you are treated to glimpses of life from over 2000 years ago…something I often find hard to absorb coming from a country that was only founded only 225 years ago!
Information
Jerash is open every day from 8am – 4pm in Winter and until 5 pm in Summer.
Do you like to visit historic sites when you are travelling??
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I love to travel! I love exploring the markets, trying new tastes and finding fabulous restaurants so this blog is also about food!
I'd love to think that by sharing my stories, you will be able to add new experiences to your dream trip or simply enjoy the escape with us
Happy travelling.
Oh you have got that travel bug activated with this post. Great photos and narrative!
Thanks Jackie. It really is the most amazing place to visit!
Very beautiful photos
Thanks Lili.Glad you enjoyed them.
I love the views from afar to enable us to really see the whole forum. The cut out star ceiling in the North Theatre – I have seen the same thing in the old Arab baths in Granada!
The history of Jerash is amazing. Amazing that it lay unused for so long and then only got discovered again in the 1800′s, and they are still excavating – how exciting. I am going to revisit this post again tomorrow, there is so much to take in.
It’s an incredible place Jan. Yes, you do wonder how it could be forgotten for so long don’t you. I hope you enjoy your second visit!!
Fantastic place. I really love to visit ruins and was mesmermized by the pictures all the way through. The forest of pillars at the beginning really sets the tone. I reminds me of Ephesus, but looks like much more has been excavated. You might be interested in contacting the owner of Archaeology-Travels.com He’s currently looking for statements from travel writers recommending a tip about an archaeological site, and this is not one that most people will have visited, if you have a tip to share.
It certainly is a sight I can highly recommend as is a vist to all of Jordan. I’ll definitely contact the blog site, thanks Vera.
Jordan’s on my list so I’ll be bookmarking this post for later.
I enjoyed reading about Jerash, I hadn’t heard about it before. I do love visiting historic sites.
Jordan is a fascinating country marcia. Whilst I was expecting to be blown away by Petra, Jerash was a great surprise. The history is fascinating!
I wonder how it would feel to be on a dig and first find these treasures. I love the photo of Cardo Maximus. It really does gives you the sense of what it was like once upon a time in Jerash.
I think about it too Cathy. When I left school, I wanted to be an archaeologist, so I think about it quite often, especially when I see excavation work going on around me as I did here. Walking down the main thorough fare certainly takes you back in time, especially when you notice the chariot tracks in the paving!
What an amazing trip- I haven’t visited the area but my fiance has and his stories are just as magical as yours- really putting you there. I can’t wait to see this for myself someday soon.
Jerash is magical Jade as is the rest of Jordan. I hope you get to vist very soon! Honeymoon perhaps!!
I would love to visit this area someday. This was a fascinating trip through Jerash! Experiencing some of the history from this land would be amazing. Loved your pictures too
Thanks Debbie. I loved Jordan and found it quite unreal to be surrounded by history that I had readily absorbed in school days but never thought I would see. Jerash was certainly one of the highlights.
I had never heard of Jerash, but oh wow, what an amazing place. It looks like it’s not overrun with tourist and that you can really take your time to get a sense of this place. Can you imagine what it must have been like in the early days when they were uncovering it? Thanks so much for sharing and planting this seed in my mind. Perhaps someday I shall visit here.
It’s my pleasure to introduce you to Jerash, Michele. No I can’t imagine finding something as grand as this. It would be every archaeologists dream. There’s still a lot of excavation work taking place so it will be interesting to return one day and see what else has been uncovered. I hope you to see it for yourself oneday.
I want to go to Jordan now after you’ve inspired me with your posts
Absolutely beautiful pictures, Jenny! I love how you gave us such a wonderful walking tour. These ruins almost made me feel like I was in Italy instead of Jordan. I love visiting ruins like these and hope to get here soon.
I too felt I was back in Italy Mary. I had to check when Vesuvius erupted burying Pompei so I could establish a link between them. The layout of the city is so easy to follow so the imagination runs wild as to their way of life in those days! I hope you visit Jordan soon… I know you’ll love it!
So great that you got to realise a dream in going to Jordan.
To be honesty, I’ve seen that many photos of Petra over the years, I hardly give them a second glance now – of course, we’d still love to see it in person 
– but this site looks amazing. I would spend all day wandering around here. Your photos are great!
Julia
Thanks Julia. Jordan was all I imagined and more! I hate to tell you but there’s still a few more photos of Petra to come!! Jerash was amazing…so much to take in that I too would love to go back!
Cal me ignorant but I’d never heard of these ruins before.. Jordan is one of the few countries in the Middle East that I would truly like to visit. I can’t get over the size of the ruins and I love the last photo with the view of the forum. It’s going to be hard to top this trip.
It certainly is going to be hard to top Jordan Leigh! I had heard of Jerash but was unaware of the magnitude and state of the ruins. It reminded me of Herculaneum where, as opposed to Pompei, I found it very easy to imagine the city as it was so long ago. It’s certainly a country steeped in history.
I’m blown away by your photos! My sister-in-law visited Jordan and Petra last summer by herself, and posted many of her photos on-line. You both have whetted my appetite to visit that part of the world! Where are you going next?
Thank you Karene. If you get the opportunity to go to Jordan, you should take it! It’s a fabulous country, the people are so nice and the history is amazing. I’m not sure where we’ll go in 2013..it’s still up in the air. Jordan wasn’t planned this time last year so it will be interesting to see what surprises are in store!
Jenny,
I live in Jordan and have been to Jerash a dozen times. Excellent guide and write up of Jerash! I really enjoyed it, thanks. Beautiful photos and angles; great job capturing and portraying the city.
Thanks,
Daniel
Hi Daniel. Thank you for your lovely compliment. I’m very envious of you being able to vist Jerash as often as you like. It’s such a huge and magnificent site, That I know I have probably missed quite a lot. It would be great to go back and see it again.
Wow! Beautiful pictures of an amazing place. I was not aware of this an will certainly add it to my itinerary when I get to Jordan someday. Your trip sounds amazing.
Thanks Cindy. Jordan is an amazing country and along side Petra, Jerash was an fabulous highlight.Hope you visit there soon.
Great photos! It reminds me a lot of Ephesus in Turkey and Volubilis in Morocco. I guess I have another set of Roman ruins to add to my list now.
Jerash certainly rates as one of the top Roman sites I have seen Kristina. I actually preferred walking around this amazing place to Pompeii. Definitely add these to your list! Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
Beautifully written and photographed article, Jenny! I wish I had known about this place when I was in Italy last April – this looks like an amazing experience. I am looking for a great excuse to go back anyways! I invite you to come and explore my unique & luxury travel blog when you have a moment! Would love you to leave me a comment if you read any of my stories! Nice to meet you; you have a wonderful blog and I know how much work it is to keep them up! Well done!
Hi Deborah. These ruins are in Jordan. It is probably the mention of Roman ruins that you assumed they were in Italy. Italy has some incredible roman ruins but for me these were more interesting than Pompeii. I’ll pop over to your blog and have a look. Thanks you for visting and for your comment.